Random Thoughts Friday

I ran across this video on the Our State website (Our State is one of my favorite magazines, so well done).  If you want a little peek inside a textile mill then hit play.  They are in the Cone Mills White Oak plant in my hometown of Greensboro, NC.  The denim woven there will be used for yet another North Carolina company - Raleigh Denim - who makes the jeans in Raleigh, NC.  Which is awesome! 


A couple of things, these are older dobby, shuttle looms (if any of my textile peeps are reading this, feel free to confirm or deny - the looms seem too close together for them to be rapier and too old to be anything else) so they run slower than the looms I deal with in my job.  And second, this lady is so like so many of the weavers that I know and have known and I must say that I LOVE weavers.  A good weaver is worth their weight in gold.  Trust me.

So that was a tiny peek into the American textile industry.

On an unrelated note, I ran across this sweater in one of my searches:

Jaime sweater - Club Monaco

Which made me immediately think of this song:



I'm not sure about why you would want a sweater with "1985" on it unless you really love Paul McCartney and Wings or maybe if that was the year of your birth.  The thing is Club Monaco was established in 1985, but who the heck cares about that? 

Anyhoo, hope you all have a fab weekend!  See you on the flip side!

NYC Museum Report - Color Moves: Art & Fashion by Sonia Delaunay at Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum

Contributor Laura Johnson checking in again with another exhibition report. Laura is a gifted textile designer and colorist with 20 years of experience who lives and works in Manhattan. Because we all can't live in or visit NYC regularly she'll be checking in from time to time to report about exhibits and other interesting tidbits happening there.

The Color Moves: Art & Fashion by Sonia Delaunay at the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum  is one of the best I have seen this year. The show includes some garments and many, many textile designs There are multiple colorways shown for some, which I found especially enjoyable.

Source: dwellstudio.com via Jenny on Pinterest

Sonia Delaunay and her husband Robert were members and among the founders of the Orphism movement, which emphasized geometric shapes and the use of strong colors. What makes her especially interesting is the way that she was a female artist and a modern designer.

via NY Times

Her work included painting, set designs, textiles, clothing and furniture. She was also the first living female artist to have a retrospective of her work at the Louvre.

Source: dwellstudio.com via Jenny on Pinterest

Here is a link to the NY Times review of the show for some additional information about Sonia Delaunay.

NYC Museum Report - Knoll Textiles at The Bard Graduate Center Gallery

Knoll Textiles, 1945-2010
The Bard Graduate Center Gallery
May 18 - July 31, 2011

Contributor Laura Johnson checking in again with another exhibition report.  Laura is a gifted textile designer and colorist with 20 years of experience who lives and works in Manhattan.  Because we all can't live in or visit NYC regularly she'll be checking in from time to time to report about exhibits and other interesting tidbits happening there.

Air Rights (“Satellite” colorway)

Suzanne Tick (American, born 1959)

KnollTextiles

Photographer: Bruce White

The Bard Graduate Center Gallery is a great little place to keep an eye on for shows. This summer they have a wonderful exhibit on KnollTextiles, covering several decades of amazing designs and innovative materials. Knoll is known for using great designers, and this show included textiles by Anni Albers, Alexander Girard, Sheila Hicks, Jhane Barnes, Suzanne Tick and others. The show does a wonderful job of bringing both the Knoll brand and the role of textiles in the history of modern interiors and design to the forefront of public attention.  I found that while I was rather familiar with the woven textiles,there were some amazing prints that I had never seen before.
 

Pyramid (“Violet/Purple” colorway)

Christa Häusler-Goltz (German, born 1943)

Photographer: Bruce White

It was also interesting to read about the history of the textiles department.  So many talented designers have been associated with Knoll, it is no wonder that they are the leader in this arena. 

Mepal (“Willow” colorway)

Proenza Schouler (Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez: both American, born 1978)

Photographer: Bruce White

Also included in the show were some great classic pieces of furniture with their original upholstery and fun examples of sampling systems that Knoll has used over the years.

Astrid Sampe. Rugby upholstery (Two-Tone Orange colorway) on Model 71 armchair designed by Eero Saarinen, ca. 1955. Made for Knoll Textiles, chair made for Knoll Associates. Photo: Bruce White.

All images via The Bard Graduate Center Gallery

Textile Terminology

Textile terms can be a bit confusing/misleading/uncomprehensible, trust me I know.  My first year in the College of Textiles at NCSU was basically spent learning all new terminology and changing the way I thought about fabrics of any sort (and who knew there was so much darn math and lab work?  Seriously, who knew?).  Well if you ever find yourself in the situation where you need to know the difference between a Dobby* and a Jacquard woven fabric or if something is railroaded or not or even if something is knit or woven then I'm going to give you a couple of resources that can help out.

First, let's go to the almighty Cotton Incorporated and their online Fashion and Fabric Glossary.  It's just a basic reference list, but a handy one to bookmark nonetheless.  We had little printed versions of this when I was in school.  (We all wanted jobs with Cotton Inc back in the day)

Another online glossary (that's a bit more technical and in depth than Cotton Inc's) is Fibre2Fashion's.  Great for checking out definitions of different types of dyeing - which honestly I'm still fuzzy on.  (If you want to get a glimpse of what my schooling was like just scroll down the first page and check out the definition of "Acetate", such things bring back panic attacks of Textile Chemistry and how bad I was).

Another great reference book (one that I still use to this day) and was like a textbook to me in school is Fairchild's Dictionary of Textiles.  This is a much more involved book with definitions of tons of terms.  I would highly recommend it as an addition to any Interior Designer's libraries.

So there you go, a little bit of a different post for me, but one that I think will be a help (or hope it will be).  Now back to our regularly scheduled programming.

*Don't know if you ever have noticed, but my profile "name" is Dobbygirl.  This is in reference to the fact that I started out my career as a Dobby fabric designer (fabrics woven on Dobby looms).  I really enjoy the challenge of designing on a Dobby loom.  So there's the story.

Image via Amazon.com

(Felt) Rock On!

I am really into felt rocks these days for some odd reason.  They are just wads of wool felted down to make these rock-looking knick knacks, but I think they are very cool.  What is felting you may ask?  Well, if you've ever washed and/or dried a 100% wool sweater, then you have experienced felting.  Felting can be done a number of ways, none of which I will bore you with here.  A few companies are doing them, here are a couple. 

First up Ronel Jordaan Textiles, they make very large and very small ones (the latter can be pieced together and used as rugs, which are very cool). Their "rocks" are quite realistic looking, which is probably very hard to do and labor intensive.

Then there's Molo Design, their rocks aren't as realistic and seem to serve only as decoration and novelty.  Still, they are cool (and pricey).

I found a few examples on Etsy which are more in my price range:

Felted Pebble Gift Set in Heather Brown - $36

Felt Pebbles by kneek - $33 per dozen

Of course I could always turn to my fiber artist BFF and see if she could make me a few (see her felting work here).  Ah, the choices.

Images via Ronel Jordaan Textiles (top 3), Molo Design (middle 2) and Etsy (bottom 2)

Yes, I love toile

I'm not that traditional in my "decorating" but I do love a hit of toile here and there, just not too much.  I mean not the walls, drapes, bedding, etc.  That's a bit much for me.  But a touch here and there, that's just about right.  Traditional Home has a whole slideshow with images of decorating with toile and these two pictures seem to illustrate the "right" amount of toile for me.

A nice upholstered headboard.

Maybe a fun lighting fixture?  That would work.

To tell the truth, I never gave toile much of a thought until I worked for a well known printed fabric company. Only then did I realize how intricate they were (or could be) and the stories each different toile told.  Now I have a much deeper appreciation for them and enjoy having them around the house.  Trust me there's a toile for everyone, if you haven't found yours keep on looking.

Images via Traditional Home

Texile nerd alert! - Unifi to be featured on CNBC

For all the textile geeks out there (like myself) Home Textiles Today is reporting that CNBC will feature Unifi's Repreve recycled polyester production on Dec 2.  Here is the article (via Home Textiles Today):

Greensboro, N.C. -- Unifi, Inc.’s production of Repreve recycled polyester will be featured on CNBC’s Sustainability Series - People, Planet & Profit on Dec. 2 .


People, Planet and Profit examines the bold moves companies are making to find ways to reduce and reuse anything along the supply chain, leading to a leaner, cleaner and greener operation.

A CNBC film crew visited Unifi’s Repreve manufacturing facility in Yadkinville, N.C. on Nov. 24. The television segment will air on CNBC at 8:25 a.m. ET on Wednesday, Dec. 2, and will also be available on its website at http://www.sustainability.cnbc.com/

“Unifi has a long history of reducing our environmental impact, and the Repreve family of products is a natural evolution of that strategy,” said Bill Jasper, president and CEO for Unifi. “Being featured on CNBC’s People, Planet and Profit demonstrates how Unifi is an industry leader in providing sustainable textile solutions.”

Unifi, Inc. (NYSE: UFI) is a diversified producer and processor of multi-filament polyester and nylon textured yarns and related raw materials.

The Greensboro, N.C.-based company adds value to the supply chain and enhances consumer demand for its products through the development and introduction of branded yarns that provide unique performance, comfort and aesthetic advantages.

Unifi's yarns and brands are readily found in home furnishings, apparel, legwear, and sewing thread, as well as industrial, automotive, military and medical applications. For more information about Unifi, visit http://www.unifi.com/ or to learn more about Repreve, visit the new Web site at http://www.repreve.com/.

It would be a good watch for anyone interested in understanding how yarn production actually works along with how recycled yarn is produced (starring Poly and her sister Ester - ha!).

Oh and yeah, I have two degrees in this stuff - dork! :o)

Another new bedding collection!

Garnet Hill is teaming with designer Nicola Manganello for a bedding collection. It is set to debut online August 5th. It looks like it will be chock full of interesting designs. Stay tuned...

Image via Garnet Hill

If you haven't already...

Check out the new organic bedding collection from Amy Butler. Here's a description from Amy herself:

"I am so happy to be able to share my new line of bedding with you! I have teamed up with my friends at Welspun to create this stunning, internationally inspired line. I am most excited to announce that my new line is produced in a very eco-friendly way! The bedding has all been created using 100% certified-organic cotton and low-impact dyes. I love how these designs show the world that organic can be fashionable and comfortable as well as earth-friendly. This line includes everything from comforters, duvet covers and sheets to decorative throw pillows and curtains. Everything you need to complete a bedroom!"

The patterns are beautiful and colorful and everything you would expect from Ms. Butler. The line is available at the Welspun bedding shop and Bed, Bath & Beyond . More information is also available at Amy Butler's website.

Image via Amy Butler

BMW GINA light visionary model concept car

As a textile designer (who designed automotive fabric for, like, 15 minutes) I find this completely fascinating. It has stayed in my head for about a year now and I still think it's so cool!

BMW GINA light visionary model concept car

Shared via AddThis

Image via Designboom

Some thoughts about now

With the news a couple of weeks ago that the Sears Tower will be renamed the Willis Tower (groan) came the realization that every place I've ever worked has either been renamed or simply does not exist anymore. How sad. It seems like my work history doesn't exist. When asked where or for whom I have worked, most responses get blank stares or remarks of "Are they even in business anymore?" (No, they aren't - is usually my response). There are two that are still around, Culp and Covington, but the locations and the divisions in which I worked are distant memories (as are the people I worked with).

Textiles used to be a very stable, exciting and vibrant industry. I have heard stories of the lavish parties and trips people used to take - when times were good. Unfortunately for the Textile industry, times haven't been "good" for the past 10 years (or more) - basically my entire working career. When my husband graduated from college he missed his graduation because he was already working, people were fighting for textile graduates. That was a while ago. Since then, I have watched mounds of people lose their jobs, little towns die (or at least scramble to reinvent themselves as something other than a "mill town") and old manufacturing facilities turn into condos or just left to waste away. How sad. The saddest part is not many made a fuss, there were no bailouts or lifelines for them. I watch the news these days and I sigh because the way most people are feeling now is the way I have felt for most of my career. It's tough walking into work each day not knowing when the hammer will fall. I got laid off from two different companies in the course of a year - yeah, I used to joke I was a walking country song waiting to be written. I just picked up, moved on and prayed, a lot.

The industry is a completely different animal now, mostly overseas. There are a few manufacturers here that hang on, and I hope they do well. I hope people start to realize more and more how important it is to support them. But what I want you to take away from reading this is that you have to evolve too. I have learned this the hard way. Get up, dust yourself off and plow on. I'm having to look at my future career path in a completely different and creative way, because what I used to do, in the capacity I did it in, is slowly dying out. Maybe this economic downturn will force more people to be creative, entrepreneurial, and use outside-the-box thinking. I sure hope so, I am looking forward to a very bright future, and that this hard time will soon pass.